View Full Version : Progress screenshots: FGM Competition "1944" (Finished)2010
C-47
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/af29/cheesy_peas/model/c47/DSCF3960.jpg
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/af29/cheesy_peas/model/c47/DSCF3959.jpg
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/af29/cheesy_peas/model/c47/DSCF3958.jpg
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/af29/cheesy_peas/model/c47/DSCF3957.jpg
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/af29/cheesy_peas/model/c47/DSCF3956.jpg
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/af29/cheesy_peas/model/c47/DSCF3955.jpg
ACSpectre
01-07-2010, 17:25
Looks great so far. I think it will be lots of fun to watch the progress.
AirborneBob
01-08-2010, 00:21
Looking good....
I would be no good with all the fiddly bits... LOL
Looks like fun -- suddenly have urge to visit a hobby shop this weekend :-)
Keep us posted with pic as it progresses
ACSpectre
01-08-2010, 18:46
Here is the project that I have just undertaken:
<a href="http://s874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/?action=view¤t=Picture001.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Picture001.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/?action=view¤t=Picture002.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Picture002.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/?action=view¤t=Picture003.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Picture003.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
The idea here is to create a diorama depicting a Maquis ambush of a German supply truck in Normandy around the time of the Allied invasion. I plan to build the Blitz primarily stock and add fuel drums, jerry cans, and assorted crates to the rear cargo area. The figures are going to take some reworking. The teen throwing the rock will be built mostly stock but the rock in his hand needs to be turned into a grenade. The figure with the broom needs to have the head repositioned so he is looking up and the broom needs to be replaced with a weapon. The other figure needs to lose the newspaper and I am undecided about giving him a radio or the firing mechanism for a mine.
All equipment and figures will be painted to match the timeline and the surrounding terrain (roadway, woods or buildings for cover of the ambushers, etc) will have to be modelled. I am looking for a pre-made base that fits the plan but if I can't locate one this will have to be scratchbuilt.
My excitement for this build has been increased by the thought of sharing it with you all here. I am planning to go buy some paints and get started today.
The Fisher King
01-08-2010, 21:38
Sounds like a fantastic project.
Where will you start first?
ACSpectre
01-09-2010, 00:35
Got paints for the truck today so mthat is where I'm going to start. My local hobby shop didn't have the colors I need/want for the figures so I will either have to order them online or make a trip to another hobby shop. Either way it won't be until mid to late next week when I can get them. Once I get them I will start the figures as well. Still looking for an acceptable base, if one can't be found I will have to start scratch building one.
ACSpectre
01-10-2010, 03:41
Got started today with some preliminary painting. Just the steel parts so far. I took some of the luster out of my Steel colored paint by blending it with a little Gunship Grey. I mixed it approximately 50/50 and was happy with the color once applied. Parts are still on the sprue as this is very preliminary work. Still need to get some more paints but I do have enough to work with for a while.
I've been away from the hobby for quite awhile. Aside from my eyes not being what they used to be, it was like slipping on a favorite old pair of slippers. I forgot how much I love the smell of paint. More pictures and details to follow.
The Fisher King
01-10-2010, 08:58
Good stuff keep us posted.
ACSpectre
01-21-2010, 15:58
I've found the groundwork I am going to use for my diorama. It is from a company in Arizona called "Build-A-Rama". This is in 1/32 scale and though my figures and vehicle are 1/35, being that it is just terrain with no buildings it should work fine. The stuff is not cheap but the quality looks excellent.
Here is the base, it comes without the tank and figures seen in this picture of course and costs $50
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/DioBase.jpg
Then I am going to add this bocage set to the base to complete my ground work. It will give my figures cover to hide behind and spring their ambush from. This set costs $70.
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Bocage.jpg
ACSpectre
01-24-2010, 07:07
The real work begins, starting with the Blitz.
Preliminary painting, I started with small parts that would be brush painted. Primarily the frame, drive train, and under carriage. I will paint the outside of the cab and rear body with my airbrush. This preliminary painting is done with the parts still on sprue.
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture001-1.jpg
The next pictures are of the actual building process of the frame and drive train. The first step involved attaching spring shackles, leaf springs and the transfer cas to the frame.
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture002-1.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture003-1.jpg
Tie rod, trailer hitch and body supports are added. The engine is assembled and attached as well as the drive shaft and exhaust system.
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture004.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture005.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture006.jpg
The wheels are assembled.
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture009.jpg
Wheels. fuel tank and a storage box are attached to the frame.
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture007.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture008.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture010.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture011.jpg
The next step will be touch up painting and weathering of what I have built so far. I have ordered some more paint as I couldn't find the colors I needed to do the airbrushing at my hobby store. They should be here by the middle of the week. I may start on some of the figures until then.
More pictures to come.
Looking c ool -- interesting process to watch -- really makes me want to dash out and buy a kit myself :-)
AirborneBob
01-24-2010, 14:38
Don't forget to sand up the tires, give them a real worn out look....the tread should really be scruffed up some...kinda like this:
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb20/AirborneBob/Sdfk%20234_1/IMG_0351.jpg
ACSpectre
01-24-2010, 20:37
That is definitely in the plan. Won't use as much mud as you have based on the scene I am trying to create. I will put some wear and some dust on the tires however. Wheels are not glued on, just inplace so that the frame is not resting on the under carriage. I really try to use as little cement as possible, I am a little rusty in that department on this project but things are starting to come back to me. Wheels are something that I only cement on a project if they don't fit snugly on their own and there is an issue of them moving out of position or falling off completely.
Your work above is excellent, by the way.
[hirr]Leto
01-30-2010, 18:20
Great stuff! Look forward to seeing more!
Thanks!
Cheers!
Leto
ACSpectre
01-30-2010, 18:42
Great idea, love the work. More, please
cillmhor
01-30-2010, 19:28
This is great fun to watch as it all comes together, I'm no modeller, but it's fascinating all the same. Thanks for sharing.
Nathangun
01-30-2010, 21:08
Brilliant work, first rate. I used to get help from a guy in the neighbourhood I grew up in who did that stuff for a living.
razorboy
01-30-2010, 23:09
Thanks to All for the kind words. 10 - 12" of snow today in Central Virginia and so with the snow clearing and obligatory beer consumption, no work got done on the diorama today. Hopefully tomorrow will find me working on figures and test-constructing a patch of groundwork..... we'll see how it goes.
rb
Top notch. No question. Thanks for letting us have a look.
ACSpectre
01-31-2010, 06:16
Still waiting on paint to continue with the Blitz, so I started working on the figures.
Here are the two occupants of the truck. They came with the truck kit and were assembled stock. I have yet to decide whether to use soft caps or helmets on them, both are included in the kit.
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0523.jpg
The next figures I worked on were the Sol figures. If you look at the first pictures in this thread they are the civilain figures holding the mop and the newspaper. The figure holding the mop needed slight modification, I had to widen the grip on the hands to accomodate a rifle, I did this as carefully as possible with an X-acto knife. I test fitted an M-1 and it fits fairly well. I decided that if I need a better fit, I will shave some off the rifle as I don't want to risk damaging the hands. The head was positioned looking up instead of down and there is a gap at the neck that will require some putty.
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0522.jpg
The figure reading the newspaper need a bit more delicate work. The hands were facing in so I had to reposition them to hold a weapon. I accomplished this by using an X-acto saw blade to saw the hands off flush with the end of the sleeve. I sanded the saw cuts on the hands and the sleeves flat and then reglued the hands to the end of the arms with one palm up and one palm down to better accomodate a weapon. I will use some putty to clean up the connection to the arms. This figure also needs the head glued on, at which time I will see if that needs a little repositioning as well.
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0524.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0525.jpg
All figures need putty to fill gaps at the joints. Next I will be working on my grenade thrower.
razorboy
01-31-2010, 12:36
Looking good AC! I particularly like your figure choice (never heard of Firestorm) and must check them out. I also like your choice in grass .... that may be what I need for my current.... been puzzling a bit over that.
Keep us posted.
ACSpectre
01-31-2010, 19:01
Looking good AC! I particularly like your figure choice (never heard of Firestorm) and must check them out. I also like your choice in grass .... that may be what I need for my current.... been puzzling a bit over that.
Keep us posted.
Found the All the figures at Squadron. With the Firestorm figure, I was simply looking for something in the rough pose I needed. I came across this one and knew I had found what I was looking for. I found the company for the groundwork through Armorama.
AirborneBob
01-31-2010, 21:15
Great work as always Razor....my building time is cut due tothe snow and cold here in Tennessee....my shop is a shed outside..no heat...
ACSpectre
02-02-2010, 00:51
Squadron Delivers!
Got my paints and other assorted goodies from Squadron today. I just love getting things in the mail :whoo:
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0526.jpg
The Fisher King
02-02-2010, 20:21
Thanks for the update keep it coming
ACSpectre
02-03-2010, 04:33
Payday!!!!!! Walked into the hobby shop with a glazed look in my eye. I was like a kid in a candy store. However, moderation prevailed. I walked out with only a bottle of liquid cement, some decal set, a jar of acrylic black paint and some thinner to make a wash for my Opel, and a pastel weathering set. All of that and my wallet was only $35 lighter.
Life is good :thumb:
ACSpectre
02-05-2010, 02:47
Some more progress today. I was able to put a wash on the undercarriage of the Opel today. I mixed some Polly-S acrylic "Grimey Black" and thinned it with some Isopropyl Alcohol. I started with a small amount of paint and ended up using more than I thought I would have to to get the effect I wanted.
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Picture004.jpg
Since I'm not going to be using the canvas top on the back of the truck, I used that as a test for my wash until I got the consistency and coverage I wanted.
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Picture005.jpg
I applied the wash to most of the undercarriage of the truck. The engine and transfer case got a liberal wash, but I also hit the leaf springs, king pins , tie rods and hubs. I also hit the top of the fuel tank around the filler cap and was pleased with the oily, greasy appearnce it left. Hard to see the effect of the wash in the pictures, the effect is subtle but I am happy with the results.
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Picture006.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Picture007.jpg
I also finished the two remaining figures for the diorama. The "grenade thrower" went together basically stock. The modifications I made were: I shaved the rock out of the figures hand so I can put a grenade there. This was fine work but I was able to make a gap big enough for the grenade without damaging the fingers of the hand. Since the figure is designed to be modern it was wearing jeans. I removed the back pockets and the heavy seam on the legs with an X-Acto knife and some sandpaper. The second of the two white figures was modified also. I repositioned the head so it was looking up and after test fitting the rifle I had to do some more repositioning on the hand. Hard to see the detail on the white figure in the picture.
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Picture009.jpg
All figures are ready for putty and then paint. However tomorrow I plan to break out the airbrush and paint the exterior of the truck. Been a while since I've used the airbrush.
Be afraid, Be VERY afraid.
Nathangun
02-05-2010, 03:06
Outstanding work AC.
AirborneBob
02-05-2010, 05:45
give it a good cleaning first....
razorboy
02-05-2010, 09:13
Looking good AC. It will really tell a story.... which is what all good dioramas should do.
Well Done,
rb
razorboy
02-06-2010, 23:19
Group Model Build #1 - 1944
Starting - 00:00hrs. February 7, 2010 < > Ending 18:00hrs. June 6, 2010
1) All FGM members are allowed and encouraged to participate - except those members designated as judges.
2) All entries must represent military or civilian figures,vehicles, aircraft, naval vessels, equipment or structures in use by any nation during the year 1944.
3) All builds must be documented by no less than 3 pictures taken during construction, with the first photo showing the kit parts still on the sprue.
**** We will waive rule #3 for this first build and allow any builds started this year****
4) All builds must be completed by the specified finish-date in order to be judged.
5) All modellers are allowed up to 3 entries and as specified in rule#3, there must be at least 1 pre-construction picture, 2 construction pics and at least 3 when completed for judging.
6) All scales and kit types are permitted, ie. resin, styrene, alloy,wood, etc..
7) Dioramas are permitted in this build.
8) Judging will be as follows: Judge Votes - each with one vote counting: (25% x3 Judges) = 75%
Member Votes - done through a voting poll = 25%
----------
100%
9) All Judge's decisions are FINAL
10) Have FUN!!!!
Please list your choice for the build on this thread and should anyone have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask.
Now let's have some FUN!
ACSpectre
02-07-2010, 00:23
I'll be doing a diorama in 1/35. A German Opel Blitz truck and 5 figures. The diorama will depict the truck being ambushed by the French Resistance.
Quick question....where do you get the styrofoam from? What type of shop?
razorboy
02-09-2010, 21:23
I bought it at an arts and craft shop here in Virginia called Michael's. I would imagine that any arts and craft store would have it, perhaps a flower shop or even styrofoam sheet insulation from a home improvement or hardware store.
rb
The Fisher King
02-09-2010, 21:57
Where do the ideas come from Razorboy. Do you start with a model and then picture a scene or vice versa?
razorboy
02-10-2010, 12:02
FK, I usually get the idea looking at pictures but in this case I have always wanted to do a stug model supported by infantry and the rest of the story just evolved. I always develop a story line for each scene, that helps me in the natural progression of the diorama.
rb
Good idea sticking the roadwheels on masking tape, hadn't thought of that but it's obvious once seen......how many things in life are like that!
Do you scrape the paint off the road wheel axles before gluing, or just throw it on as is? I can't imagine there would be much problem, paint or no...
ACSpectre
02-11-2010, 01:49
Good stuff. You give us all something to aspire to, RazorBoy
AirborneBob
02-11-2010, 02:30
Good job on the camo on the uniforms....dots!!
ACSpectre
02-11-2010, 02:49
The work continues.
I put in a large chunk of time today, happy with the progress. The first thing I did was apply some putty to the joints on all my figures. Been a while since I've worked with putty so the first figure is a little rough. However, as I progressed things came back to me and by the last figure I was able to apply it with relative ease. I used Squadron Green Putty and applied it with a toothpick and a small flat spatula. Besides using the point of the toothpick to initially apply the putty, I also used it as sort of a "rolling pin" to create a smooth application.
<a href="http://s874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/?action=view¤t=Picture010-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture010-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
The next step today was some work on the interior. On the dashboard I used some Flat White to drybush the instrument panel and make the guages stand out. I used some Steel to drybrush the latch and hinges on the glove compartment. Next came the floor board section. I drybrushed the foot pedals flat black and then washed the entire floor section with and alcohol and acrylic Grimy Black wash. On the seat I applied some straight Isopropyl alcohol to it. Once it was nearly dry I rubbed it with a large stiff bristle paintbrush on the portions that would get the most wear. The effect was a noticeable lightening that looked like the effect you get from continually dragging your body across a vinyl seat. I apologize for the blurry pictures, but you get the idea.
<a href="http://s874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/?action=view¤t=Picture012.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture012.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/?action=view¤t=Picture014.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture014.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/?action=view¤t=Picture013.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture013.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
The rear compartment parst wer next. On the real truck they are made primarily of wood. Having been in the military, I know that equipment takes a beating even in non-combat situations. To simulate this, I"roughed up" the simulated wood parts. I made some scratches, punched some holes, and shaved down the edges withan X-Acto knife and then used some sandpaper on the wood portions as well.
<a href="http://s874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/?action=view¤t=Picture011.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Picture011.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
The last project of the day was assembling the fuel drums and jerry cans. I was very pleased with the quality of these Tamiya parts. The drums have simulated dents in them and the parts went together perfectly leaving only some minor puttying to do.
<a href="http://s874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/?action=view¤t=Picture015.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture015.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/?action=view¤t=Picture017.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture017.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/?action=view¤t=Picture018.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture018.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/?action=view¤t=Picture019.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture019.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
I removed all the body parts from the sprue in preparation for airbrushing. Still trying to work up the courage to break it out. I do have the canvas top to practice my painting skills on. The time is rapidly approaching when I'm just going to bite the bullet and do it.
ACSpectre
02-11-2010, 20:48
No Runs, No Drips, No Errors
Finally worked up the courage and fired up the airbrush today. The airbrush is a Testor Aztec 470. I bought it with an entire kit that includes airbrush, supply hose, 6 different nozzles and assorted paint cups and jars. I found the set brand new on Ebay and got it for only $120. Considering the set lists for about $185, I was very pleased with the deal. Since I'm just starting back into the hobby, I do not have an air compressor so I'm forced to use canned air. Not the optimum setup as I really have no way to regulate the air pressure other than my trigger finger, but since I don't have an extra $200 kicking around to buy a compressor it will have to do. Here is the whole setup:
<a href="http://s874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/?action=view¤t=Picture020.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture020.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/?action=view¤t=Picture022.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture022.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
I chose to make the base coat of my truck Testor Model Master Dark green. The nozzle I chose to use was a .40mm general purpose nozzle designed for medium coverage. I thinned the paint until it was roughly the consitency of milk and took the plunge. After a few practice strokes on some newspaper, I moved to some plastic. I took the canvas top for the back of the truck that I don't plan to use and shot a few strokes on it to guage the right distance and paint flow. Feeling pretty confident I moved to the exterior body parts of the truck. I must say that even with the canned air, it was easy to maintain the paintflow I desired. The airbrush performed flawlessly. It was very easy to get just the finish I wanted and I was super pleased with the result.
<a href="http://s874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/?action=view¤t=Picture024.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture024.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/?action=view¤t=Picture025.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture025.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
All parts received a nice light, even base coat of paint. It looks like I might even know what I'm doing. I left everything to dry and set to cleaning the airbrush. Modern airbrush or not, the cleaning ritual is still the same and I'm pretty meticulous about it. Once that was done the "wooden" body parts were dry enough to flip over to paint the interior side. I also pulled the floor out of the box and set that in line as well. I stuck with the medium coverage nozzle and mixed up some Testor Model Master Wood paint. I didn't quite thin this batch as much as I should have and I had some problems with the nozzle plugging slightly at the beginning. I aimed at the newspaper and gave it a quick, heavy blast of air. This got the paint flowing and I kept it flowing and moved right onto the plastic. I had to back away from the parts a bit to compenste for the thicker paint flow, but once again I was able to put a nice, light coat on the parts.
<a href="http://s874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/?action=view¤t=Picture026.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/Picture026.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
I really can't say enough about this Aztec airbrush. It was a joy to use and for the relatively small investment I made it is going to serve me well. I'm going to let the base coat dry at least 24 hours before I put on the fine nozzle and try my hand at camoflauging. Depending on how confident I feel, I may try to free hand this instead of masking everything.
Great commentary pal... Im really enjoying this new section of FGM and credit to all you guys for pitching in.
razorboy
02-12-2010, 12:15
When I first got back into modelling again (after a rather lengthy hiatus) I found that my old badger compressor had seized up and wouldn't run. I took off the regulator and moisture trap assembly and attached them to one of these (- Wal-mart has these for around 40 bucks):
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee2/froglevelzcool/0004775500012_215X215.jpg
Buy a moisture trap and regulator assembly-
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee2/froglevelzcool/moisturetrapandregulator.jpg
- at your hobby shop, get any brass adapter fittings you need at your local auto parts store and there you go!
I know that there is a slight price difference between your region and mine AC but you might be able to set the whole thing up for under a 100 bucks until you get that compressor.You can't buy that many cans of what you're using for that. No noise, no electricity, the gas station down the road let me fill it for free and 100 lbs. of air lasted a long time. It is still on standby should my current compressor fail.
rb
ACSpectre
02-12-2010, 15:47
razorboy,
What a great idea, I never even thought of that, yet now it seems so obvious. I have my own large compressor in my garage so I wouldn't even have to take the time to go to a gas station or repair shop to get the tank filled. I payed $12 for the canned air, not too hard to figure out that for the same price of a few more cans I could build this set up.
Thanks for the suggestion, it has moved to the top of my list.
ACSpectre
02-12-2010, 20:50
I can sympathize. I had to buy a pair of cheaters myself. Never worn glasses in my life, but I was trying to do some fine work with the X-Acto knife and up close I couldn't see a thing. So goes the uninterruptable march of time.
ACSpectre
02-14-2010, 00:57
Looking good.
ACSpectre
02-14-2010, 03:40
More progress.
Applied camo to the truck body. Testor's Model Master Sand Yellow paint and a .30mm fineline nozzle. The combination of the line not being as fine as I thought and my rustiness at fine airbrush work led to a finish that was not as good as I wanted. There was some splatter and the lines between the colors were not as sharp as I would have liked. After letting the paint dry for 24 hours I thinned some Testor's Medium Green and applied it lightly to the edges of the colors. It did a fair job of blending the colors and cleaning up the spatter. Final weathering will help as well.
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0560.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0560.jpg
Some work on the figures followed. Initial application of putty was sanded. The two German figures will be left as is. They will be partially obstructed from view inside the cab so minor imperfections were tolerated. All three of the other figures got another application of putty after initial sanding. The grenade thrower need a little more extensive puttying to make the pullover he was wearing fit the time period.
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0567.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0568.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0569.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0570.jpg
The truck cargo was next. Fuel drums were puttied on the seams and the Jerry Cans were painted Testor's Flat Grey.
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0571.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0573.jpg
Finally, the truck bed got some attention. All interior wooden parts received a wash of Polly S Acrylic Dark Building Brown and then Oily Black. The box was then assembled.
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0563.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0575.jpg
I have a few more things to assemble on the truck bed and then I will jump into finishing all the figures.
AirborneBob
02-14-2010, 04:47
the bed and box are looking great
ACSpectre
02-14-2010, 05:03
Thanks, I am pleased with them but I am seriously considering repainting the camo pattern. Another light base coat and then applying masking to make the camo pattern sharper and neater.
Nathangun
02-14-2010, 07:13
Wow wow, pretty cool.
razorboy
02-14-2010, 12:11
Coming along nicely AC - and I wouldn't sharpen the edge of the pattern with tape, I would play with the airbrush adjusment and paint/thinner mix first on a piece of scrap. You should be able to "Tighten" that spray up a bit doing either or perhaps both.
rb
ACSpectre
02-14-2010, 20:27
Coming along nicely AC - and I wouldn't sharpen the edge of the pattern with tape, I would play with the airbrush adjusment and paint/thinner mix first on a piece of scrap. You should be able to "Tighten" that spray up a bit doing either or perhaps both.
rb
After debating it for a while, that is exactly what I'm going to do. I'm going to mix the paint just a touch thicker then mess with the adjustment. I'll back the paint flow off to zero and then open it in tiny increments until I can get the fine line I'm looking for. I'll post pictures of the results when I get done. I'm in the midst of my three workdays this week so I probably won't get much model building done unti the middle of the week.
razorboy
02-14-2010, 23:00
Good, taped camo may as well be done with a brush. I think that through experimentation, you'll find the right combo.
rb
PoorOldSpike
02-21-2010, 20:15
How about Razorboy roping in some of his mates from other sites to swell our number of entrants if need be?
Na bro...they'd just embarass honest plodders like me :)
razorboy
02-22-2010, 00:40
How about Razorboy roping in some of his mates from other sites to swell our number of entrants if need be?
I've put out one call mate but I'll certainly hit 'em again.
ACSpectre
02-23-2010, 01:34
Work on my project has been progressing steadily. After experimenting with my airbrush I was able to dial in the fine line I wanted to clean up some of the overspray on the camo job on the truck. The lines are neater but some of the sand yellow patches look a little to large and clumsy. My plan is to use some more dark green paint with the same nozzle to neaten thes areas up. The area I will concentrate on are the cab of the truck,(doors, hood, etc.).
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0582.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0583.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0585.jpg
Once the paint had dried I did some more assembly on the bottom of the truck bed. Rear fenders, two storage boxes, some lights, and an id plate holder were added. The truck bed is now ready to be attached to the frame which will be done when assembly of the cab is completed.
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0594.jpg
Did some more work on the truck bed contents. I removed the jerry cans from the toothpicks they were hanging on and finished painting the tops. The fuel drums were sanded to smooth the joints I had puttied and painted With Testors flat grey. Two of the fuel drums hace a punp inserted into the side and will need to be stored on their side. I used a square piece of balsa woof cut on an angle to be used as a "cradle" to secure these drums in the back of the truck. I drybrushed a heavy coat of Floquil Oily Black on these wedges. The rolled canvas top of the truck bead was panted Testors Medium Green, shaded with Testors Dark Green, and highlighted with Testors Pale Green.
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0586.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0590.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0592.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0605.jpg
Now work on the figures has begun in earnest. I completed puttying and sanding on all figures and painting has begun. I started with the two German figures first because as soon as I finish them I can finish assembling the truck. Uniforms were painted Floquil Light Sea Grey and shaded with Testors Gunship Grey. The shading looks a bit light so I will most likely go back over it with a mixture of Flat Black with some Gunship Grey. I will highlight the uniforms with Testors Flat Grey and then paint, shade, and highlight all flesh services. Painting was also begun on civilian figures. Paints on the grenade thrower were painted Testors Dark Tan. The pants on the bald figure received two coats of Testors Flat Brown and the paints and hat on the other figure were painted Testors Gunship Grey.
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0604.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0598.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0601.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/IMG_0600.jpg
My schedule this week is a little crazy so it looks like I won't have much time to work on the project until the weekend.
ACSpectre
02-28-2010, 01:32
Looking good.
All things are possible given the time and skill
The Fisher King
02-28-2010, 09:18
Very nice indeed
Ahh...back in the misty depths of time when I was young and carefree, my pocket money did not extend to such unobtainable dreams as 1/35 models.
For that matter, it didn't even extend to things like 1/72 planes with more than two engines...would peer misty-eyed at the Lancasters and Flying Fortresses in the shops. Even two engines was a stretch....so mainly I just built 1/72 single engined fighters and 1/72 or 1/76 tanks by Airfix or good old Matchbox.
But one fine sunny Xmas day my unwrapping uncovered a Tamiya 1/35 Wirblewind...and my happiness was complete. That was the tail end of 1978...I was twelve years old, and I made it into a model I was very proud of. One which I still have.....although much battered by time, and the attentions of some third party children who vandalised the sights and two of the 20mm quad barrels, along with a whole bunch of other models from my childhood. The crew figures have likewise gone west along with bits I stuck on it like a rifle and an SMG plus amo packs that I laboriously cut off some plastic figures. The rather dusty remains look like this:
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0314TEMP0007.jpg
And that was it for 1/35 for me. Santa never did give me another.
So what better way to start the first FGM build than to reintroduce myself to 1/35 scale modelling.
It just so happens that a couple of months ago I purchased a Lancaster on Trademe (the local e-bay equiv).....and with it came two more models. One was a French Armoured Carrier UE from 1939....too early and already mostly made up.
But the other was this beastie....a Crusader III AA tank, armed with two 20mm Oerlikon cannon. These were standard issue in a British armoured division fighting in Normandy in 1944...plus the 1st Polish Armoured Division also had a complement of them.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0314TEMP0005.jpg
Fairly nondescript markings on the 1st Polish vehicle....I am tempted to go Polish, but at this stage will go with the markings on the box which are for a 7th Armoured Division vehicle.
And just to finish things off, my 16 yr old was kind enough to snap me in my little modelling room holding the box and sprues which, if your eyes are good enough, are untouched.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0314TEMP0003B.jpg
I'm unfortunately out of time to get things moving...plus the modelling area is still rather cramped with the P26 and MTB, but hopefully we will see some progress soon. This will be a real learning experience for me; not least in terms of trying some new techniques to keep a single colour vehicle "interesting", and also in terms of vehicle weathering, which I am almost wholly unfamiliar with. More or less everything I do on the painting front will be a first, so wish me luck! :pray:
PS Brownie points to the first person to spot the Canuckistan link to Leto in the picture (no, nothing to do with the model)
Uni of Saskatchewan.
Yum Brownies , lol
The MTB is looking good.
Sorry forgot to say its on your shirt. :D
Be interesting to see how this evolves. Italeri is what my local hobby shop mainly consists of. You can give me an update about the quality of the model when you get into it.
I have trouble taking real closeups.....camera can't focus....but first looks are encouraging; mouldings are free of flash and well detailed. Rather than just do painting progress updates, I'll try and take a fair few construction pics this time.
[hirr]Leto
03-14-2010, 22:00
Nice to know you are getting some use out of that shirt.
: )
Cheers!
Leto
You do the faces last? I'd be scared of getting the paint on the uniform and ruining all that lovely camou. Suppose it works the other way round too, but still...
ACSpectre
03-15-2010, 03:55
You do the faces last? I'd be scared of getting the paint on the uniform and ruining all that lovely camou. Suppose it works the other way round too, but still...
I always paint flesh parts last as well. Don't really have a specific reason for it, I've just always done it that way.
razorboy
03-16-2010, 08:11
Camo is a lot easier to repair than a face ever will be. You usually only get one go at a face, two times .... possibly - but too much paint and you've lost any features or detail such as eyes, mouth, etc.. That's why I usually do faces last.
Thanks,
rb
Suspension on....one side, at least.
Pity all this gets covered up almost without exception!
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0320TEMP0005.jpg
Righto...suspension done on both sides, covered, and hull top secured.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0320TEMP0013.jpg
Paused here thinking about whether or not to paint the road wheels and lower hull before putting the wheels in. Am slowly coming the conclusion that I will put at least the base coat on....but will put the driver (and maybe the idler wheels) on first since they get covered by the hull rear. Will spray the road wheels separately.
Makes you wonder why they bother with all the fine suspension details only to cover it up.
The Fisher King
03-22-2010, 20:27
Now that the 6 nations is out of the way I'm ready for my 2nd project which will be an entry into the Group Build Competition.
So here it is:
http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad264/fisherrm/Models/IMG_3594.jpg
http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad264/fisherrm/Models/IMG_3595.jpg
AirborneBob
03-22-2010, 21:11
Thats a classic, no Zimmerit though, do you plan on making your own, or to go without?
The Fisher King
03-22-2010, 21:38
I was going to have a go at making my own Zimmerit. I have some modelling clay and I thought I'd do some testing first. If I think I can make it work, I'll give it a try.
PoorOldSpike
03-22-2010, 22:07
I'm not a zimmerit expert but I think this is the 'square tile' type, I don't know how it was applied-
Oberst Karl Lorenz of Grossdeutschland Div, Ukraine Jan 44
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g64/PoorOldSpike/Photos/GD-SthRusjan44.jpg
Normandy
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g64/PoorOldSpike/sub1/normand.jpg
Looking forward to this one, specially the Zimmeritt if you can do it....but I'm sure not all Panthers had the stuff so it would be perfectly correct without it.
The Fisher King
03-22-2010, 23:18
I found this pic on Wiki which I thought would help me:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4e/PanzerV_Ausf.G_1_sk.jpg
razorboy
03-22-2010, 23:49
Excellent choice Fisher King .... Try this link for your zimmerit research -
http://www.panzerworld.net/zimmerit.html
Everything you need to know about patterns and such .... great link.
Good Luck,
rb
The Fisher King
03-23-2010, 07:58
Thanks for the link razorboy.
I also found these articles with some good advice.
http://www.onthewaymodels.com/articles/zimmerithowto.htm
http://ilovewood001.tripod.com/modeling/zimmerit.html
You can see on the second photo Spike posted just how thin the Zimmeritt is, too....thinner than I had imagined.
PoorOldSpike
03-24-2010, 01:40
Here's a re-posting of a couple of zim pics that are floating around the forum somewhere-
Kingtiger in a tank museum-
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g64/PoorOldSpike/Photos/zimmKT.jpg
Kingtiger, Budapest 1944
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g64/PoorOldSpike/Photos/Ktig-Budap44.jpg
razorboy
03-24-2010, 22:24
Here's a re-posting of a couple of zim pics that are floating around the forum somewhere-
Kingtiger in a tank museum-
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g64/PoorOldSpike/Photos/zimmKT.jpg
This is a GREAT picture!!!
Kingtiger, Budapest 1944
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g64/PoorOldSpike/Photos/Ktig-Budap44.jpg
PoorOldSpike
03-24-2010, 23:21
Incidentally we've got a good photo section here-
http://www.thefewgoodmen.com/thefgmforum/forumdisplay.php?11-WW2-Section
I've enlarged and sharpened many of them so they leap out of the screen and smack you in the eye
The Fisher King
03-27-2010, 15:28
I've applied the first section of the model with zimmeritt, it's still drying so I'll file down around the edges when dry.
http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad264/fisherrm/Models/IMG_3596.jpg
ACSpectre
03-27-2010, 16:43
That looks excellent, how did you do it?
The Fisher King
03-27-2010, 18:03
I used Milliput, rolled it out to about 1mm thickness, then cut out an appropriate sized section which I fixed to the model.
I scored the Milliput with a knife, I thought I'd use a simple pattern.
On the instrustions in recommends applying zimmerit to the rear section. However this needs to be applied around quite a bit of detail which looks very challenging. So I'm wondering whether just to leave it and only zimmerit the main sections.
ACSpectre
03-27-2010, 23:42
I would give it a try. Real Zimmerit had a les than perfect appearance so what you might think looks less than perfect may look quite realistic.
ACSpectre
03-27-2010, 23:46
More than a month since the last post ... are you guys sure that you're up for this?
Actually got some work done this week, just need to take some pictures and get them posted. I am still on schedule tutuo meet the deadline. I will try and be more diligent on posting here regularly. I do want this thread to stick around and I definitely want to participate in some more group builds in the future.
Wow... how the hell did you do that!!!
AirborneBob
03-30-2010, 00:44
Fantastic!!
ACSpectre
03-30-2010, 01:41
I'd love to hear how you made that.
ACSpectre
03-31-2010, 04:34
More work completed tonight. The cab of the truck is nearly complete. Really starting to look like an actual truck now. More work completed on figures as well. My daughter has commandeered the digital camera so pictures will have to wait until I can get it back from her. This is my favorite part of a build, the point where everything starts to look like what it is supposed to be.
Stay tuned for pictures soon.
razorboy
03-31-2010, 08:02
Looking good AC, coming along nicely!
ACSpectre
03-31-2010, 11:12
Excellent pictures. I love the use of the paint brush bristles and I have been studying your Celluclay "recipe" on your website.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
razorboy
03-31-2010, 21:52
Thanks AC, I will "reverse engineer" the colours in the groundwork, matching as many of the colours on the camo smocks with the base as possible.
rb
ACSpectre
03-31-2010, 23:19
OK, managed to get use of a camera so I could post the promised pictures. Cab of the truck is well underway, interior is complete including the German figures placed inside. The grill and exterior accessories need to be attached then nothing but to attach the cab and rear compartment to the frame. More figure painting done as well, a little more to do like shading the flesh areas and painting hair and shoes then addition of weapons. I need some advice on taking better photographs of my work, especially the figures. I can't seem to get a clear, up close shot that really shows the details. Any advice on improving my photography skills would be greatly appreciated.
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/S7300594.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/S7300593.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/S7300604.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/S7300601.jpg
http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab302/ACSpectre321/Diorama/S7300599.jpg
Minor in progress shot of the Crusader III AA. Ended up putting on the idler and drive sprocket....will leave the wheels off until the base coat is on later.
A fair bit of bitsy work has been done here to the front section of the model....lights, guard rails, four towing eyes, additional plate armour (with a nice weld bead around it) on both surfaces of the front hull (you can't properly see the bit on the front), and also two aerial receptacles. The front mudguards have been added, and so have a bunch of tool and equipment lockers on both front and back of the tank.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0401TEMP0003.jpg
Next we will make up the drivers "turret", when the rectangular gap in the hull presently is.
ACSpectre
04-01-2010, 14:02
Looks to be progressing very well. Is the base coat going to be applied when the turrets are put on?
The Fisher King
04-01-2010, 19:42
That's a great idea!
AirborneBob
04-01-2010, 22:54
Lets see...surely there is something in there I can put together for "44....
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb20/AirborneBob/IMG_2239.jpg
I had those wall models too... in my original pics they did look like they were straight out of the box but since then... this evening actually I have been hacking them up with snips and scalpel... tough little bugger to cut through too but Im pleased with the result.
I'll finish it apart from the road wheels, then base coat the lot, probably with the wheels still on the sprue. Interior colour will be the first thing that gets done...the interior of the turret is allegedly gloss white, although by my reading off-white/cream (which could easily have been gloss white after a bit of use) or silver "aluminium" was standard interior paint for British tanks.
One thing I would like to get - without breaking the bank - is a crew member. Have been keeping an eye on the auction trading sites and the local shop, so far without success. Lots of German figures, the occasional US figures, but stuff all British.
The Fisher King
04-02-2010, 22:07
I've managed to make some progress over the last few days. I've found the milliput much easier to work with than expected. As long as you use water it's very workable, and I'm pleased with the results.
http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad264/fisherrm/Models/IMG_3611.jpg
I'm not going to apply much detail yet, I'm going to get a base coat applied.
http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad264/fisherrm/Models/IMG_3612.jpg
The Fisher King
04-02-2010, 22:32
I'll be interested to see how you approach this. Further down the line I'd like to have a go at some scenary so I'm keen to watch and learn.
ACSpectre
04-03-2010, 17:13
The Zimmerit looks excellent, great work.
ACSpectre
04-03-2010, 17:21
One thing I would like to get - without breaking the bank - is a crew member. Have been keeping an eye on the auction trading sites and the local shop, so far without success. Lots of German figures, the occasional US figures, but stuff all British.
Try Squadron, they have a huge selection of figures and the price isn't as bad as you might expect.
www.squadron.com
AirborneBob
04-04-2010, 03:12
ohh my mind is working..got to find a base and start that too...
Yeah looking great there!!
razorboy
04-04-2010, 13:17
That zimmerit is looking really good!
razorboy
04-04-2010, 13:18
Gothic line - trenches, strong points, barbed wire ......?
razorboy
04-04-2010, 13:21
Coming along nicely McIvan.
I have always wanted to build the Tamiya Wirbelwind, but couldn't justify the cost considering I've a huge back log of unbuilt kits. I couldn't believe it, but a discount store nearby had some on for $20.00 - I couldn't pass it up! Now I have some motivation to actually build it....
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/sven0064/Wirbelwindboxtop.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/sven0064/Wirbelwindsprues.jpg
I'll post pictures as I progress...
The Fisher King
04-04-2010, 19:09
Good job Willard l'm looking forward to regular updates.
razorboy
04-04-2010, 22:51
Nice choice Willard .... "Willard, are you an assasin?" .... "No Sir, I'm a soldier." .................. "You're neither, you're an errand boy, sent by grocery clerks to collect a bill ..." Sorry WIllard, I couldn't resist that ... It's without a doubt, one of my favorite movies of all time!
Good luck!
rb
ACSpectre
04-04-2010, 23:59
After a brief lull, it's great to see activity in this section of the forum picking up again. Group builds are moving along nicely and we now have Willard throwing his lot in with his Whirblewind build. The judges for the build are going to have their work cut out for them.
As one of the guys who petitioned the management to add this section to the forum, I'm very happy to see that it is a popular place for many FGM'er
And I almost forgot......Many Thanks to our great Commander, Bootie, for recognizing all the participants in the group build with a great looking ribbon. As always boss, we are thankful for all you do around here.
ACSpectre
04-06-2010, 05:39
Should we actually have been posting all our builds in here, rather than in our own separate threads?
I think that was the original intent. A few of us, me included, had actually started posting pics of our builds before the contest was proposed. Since those threads were seperate from this one, I think everyone else followed suit.
Perhaps we can talk to Bootie to see if there is some way to group all the individual threads under the Group Build thread.
razorboy
04-06-2010, 22:51
Yes guys, please post all progress here .... let's keep it all on one thread. That will make it easier for all to see the progression....
Thanks,
razorboy
PoorOldSpike
04-07-2010, 00:33
Okay by the awesome powers invested in me by our Lord and Master Bootie while he's at work or down the pub, I've merged all the separate threads into this Group Build 44 Competition thread, below are the competitors and their entries, let me know if I've got it wrong or missed any out-
Razorboy- Stug and Grenadiers 'clearing the trench'
ACSpectre- Opel Blitz truck 'Maquis ambush'
McIvan- Crusader III AA tank
The Fisher King- Panther
Airborne Bob- Infantry defensive position
Willard- Wirbelwind
Zaraza- C-47
(Other non-competition projects remain in their own separate threads)
ACSpectre
04-07-2010, 02:38
Thanks POS.
OK, I skipped a few steps of the instructions - just had to get at that quad 20mm main armament. I thought I did OK, until I saw the pictures on my PC. What an awful mess! It's not noticeable as much once I resized them, but blown up, you should see all the stringy gunk left from the old testors model cement. My 45 year old eyes are fading faster than I though I guess. LOL, I had to have my 6 year old daughter find the pieces onthe sprue for me. Anyway, here's a few shots. I'll see if I can start on the hull tonight.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/sven0064/Wirbelwindcanons-001.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/sven0064/Wirbelwindcanons-003.jpg
I did manage to get the guns to elevate and depress as per the instructions - rather cool, how the gun sight moves in unison as the guns move up and down.
Nice job! A sharp knife will clean away the gunk no problems.
Know what you mean about eyes....my 43 yr old eyes are starting to have a little trouble focusing on small objects at close range like, oh, half the blimmin pieces of my Crusader.
Thanks Mick for merging the threads....
ACSpectre
04-08-2010, 01:21
Excellent work Willard. Indeed a cheap pair of reading glasses and a hobby knife will get rid of all the glue "hair". I needed to buy a pair of reading glasses when I got back into the hobby.
Alas, age catches up with us all.
Thanks McIvan, ACSpectre. I'm kicking myself for not painting the cannons before assembling the unit. The kit instructions were not much help for the interior, but after checking the internet, it seems the cannons are generally black or gun metal, but the base and mechanisms are the hull colour (ie. "panzer yellow). Its going to be hard to get a crisp separation of the 2 colours.
I did a little bit of poking around the net, because everytime I look at it, it looks just like my dusty memories of the Tamiya kit.....and turns out it is a direct copy.
Whic is good news, because I remember that kit going together pretty sweetly, even if it's an old moulding by now...
ACSpectre
04-08-2010, 13:36
Thanks McIvan, ACSpectre. I'm kicking myself for not painting the cannons before assembling the unit. The kit instructions were not much help for the interior, but after checking the internet, it seems the cannons are generally black or gun metal, but the base and mechanisms are the hull colour (ie. "panzer yellow). Its going to be hard to get a crisp separation of the 2 colours.
I try and paint as much as I can before assembling anything. I pay most parts while still on the sprue. That way after assembly all I have to do is touch up the spots where I cut the parts from the sprue and any blemishes I make with glue.
Did you determine if Academy bought the rights to it, or is it an "unauthorized" copy? I realized it was a copy after I made my post, as the figures are exactly as I remember them from the old Tamiya catologue.
I did a little bit of poking around the net, because everytime I look at it, it looks just like my dusty memories of the Tamiya kit.....and turns out it is a direct copy.
Whic is good news, because I remember that kit going together pretty sweetly, even if it's an old moulding by now...
No idea. I certainly wouldn't lose any sleep over it. I understand the mouldings aren't as good as Tamiya ones, but hey ho, that goes with the price tag.
The Fisher King
05-03-2010, 23:27
I'm starting to enter the final stages of my model build. I still have some detail to add to the hull but I couldn't resist have a play around with the pigments. In this picture you can see I've gone to town with the rust pigment. I will be adding mud around the wheels and tracks and so the final look won't be as rusty. I have to say they really give the model chacter. I can't wait to get the full mud effect, along with the dust.
http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad264/fisherrm/IMG_3741.jpg
Looks good... what are you using for the rust?
AirborneBob
05-05-2010, 21:37
looks fantastic
The Fisher King
05-05-2010, 22:58
MIG pigments
Progress on the Crusader Mk III AA.....first up a shot of the ass-end, with the muffler system in place. Have since added a bunch of grab handles, tools and hooks for the towing cable (which I might leave till last)
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/DSCF1616.jpg
Next we have the turret....and after doing a bit of construction of the interior bin and the guns it was time to do the interior painting. Tried gloss white as per instructions, applied via paintbrush, but my gloss is old and didn't cover well. So I switched to flat white....and I can't imagine anything would have stayed gloss long.....and sprayed it. Guns got a flat black.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/DSCF1677.jpg
Next came a wash of raw umber. The photo flash makes it look like it puddled a bit in the top of the turret, but it didn't...was quite a nice effect. It's just still wet in the crevices when the photo was taken.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/DSCF1679.jpg
Unfortunately the next one is a bit blurred. Firstly I brushed in grime and wear and tear on the bottom of the turret using a spiky painbrush with a small amount of dark grey, stabbing it gradually into the plastic, avoiding the edges where the paint would have stayed intact (the crevices all had the raw umber wash in them to indicate dirt & grime). I then gave a light drybrush of gun-metal to the raised mesh pattern on half the bottom...you can't really see this in the photo.
Next was a technique I hadn't tried before.
I took an ordinary pencil and a bit of sandpaper and rubbed the pencil on the sandpaper to build up a bit of a pile. Getting some on my fingertip, I started to rub down the interior of the model, paying particular attention to the turret ring and to grab handles in the upper turret. Following this the 20mm Oerlikons got the graphite treatment and came up really well....it's a lot more restrained than gun metal or silver/aluminium drybrushing and it is in keeping with what I imagine would be the case for a relatively new vehicle type seeing its first campaign.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/DSCF1698.jpg
Seats got painted a leather colour, and highlighted with the same paint lightened with some white. Test fitting the turret bin to the hull came next, and the guns got fitted into the turret. This involved a lot of fiddling about as there is a rod that runs from the gun mantlet all the way to the sights on top of the turret, and is supposed to keep the sights frame aligned with the guns as they elevate.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/DSCF1699.jpg
I've since joined the pieces of the turret together and added lifting hooks, searchlight and vents to complete it.
Time to do some painting now...think I've done all I can do without getting the base colour on. Still to do is:
tracks
road wheels
towing cables x 2
The Fisher King
05-12-2010, 14:34
I've made further progress on the wheels and tracks. I still have more detail to add to the Hull as well as the skirts.
http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad264/fisherrm/IMG_3747.jpg
cillmhor
05-12-2010, 14:55
Looking very good, I'm almost on the verge of taking the plunge and seeing if I can recall how to put a model together. Inspiring stuff, especially like the detail with the pigments, and the paint job looks good. Quite a jump in quality from the Halftrack, are you going to mount it?
ACSpectre
05-12-2010, 20:28
Things in my life have calmed to a point that I will be able to return to my entry for this build. I am hoping to get some work done as early as this evening.
Fresh pictures coming soon.
The Fisher King
05-12-2010, 21:28
Yes I am thinking of a diaroma, but I want to finish the main model first. The decals have been a bit of a problem, they don't stick to the zimmerit very well, as you can see from the photo. However I think it makes the tank look a little more worn so I can live with it.
I feel I've moved on significantly from my first attempt. I've been much more patient with this one, applying much thinner paint to build up layers. The pigments really help, more pics as I enter the final stage.
Regarding decals on zimmerritt, in reality things like the numbers got hand painted, often very roughly, over the zimmeritt. If you were to try and do a steady hand paint of the problem bits of the numbers you'd be more authentic rather than less.......not for the unsteady of hand, mind!
Getting conscious of the deadline approaching! It's a lot quicker than my present work rate.
So anyway, got a white base coat on, and then adding a black pre-shade, in prep for the base coat.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0516AprilRugby0082.jpg
Then today I lay down a base coat of Khaki Drab with a little khaki in it.
Following that I highlighted panels more directly angled at the sun, using a fair amount of yellow and white mixed into the Khaki Drab. I also built up highlights along the sides so that panels are darkest at the bottom and lighter at the top. I also added random dots and patches to break up the generic khaki drab in other areas.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0516AprilRugby0083.jpg
At this point the differences look fairly stark - and they look more so under the camera flash than they actually do in reality - but I'm hopeful that sealing coats, washes and weathering will blend them into each other. I say hopeful, because I haven't tried any of this before.
I also sprayed the vinyl tracks with a mixture of dark sea grey and gunmetal. Next step for them, when I buy some, will be a wash of black ink or black oils.
ACSpectre
05-17-2010, 05:37
Looking good, McIvan.
Right, well, part of the problem is learning a bit more about my camera. I've started playing about with a few settings, but still have a long way to go and don't really have the time to learn....so this is as good as it is likely to get. Nevertheless, the colours are showing a bit more true to life in these next photos.
First job is another layer of even lighter colour on extreme highlight edges and so forth. You can see I've taken the masking tape off the guns, which need a bit of a touch up. It's all pretty stark at this point.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0524DadsUnveiling0001.jpg
Next I added some filters (or glazes, if you prefer)....just a very thin solution of paint and thinner, applied with a damp brush. It's not a wash...you don't want to get it in the recesses. My purpose was to bring different shades a little closer together and somewhat blend them. You just want to make the surface wet with it.
This is after a filter of raw sienna, a mustard colour. I went over some areas a couple of times more. Effects are just visible.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0524DadsUnveiling0005.jpg
Next I added filters of raw umber...an olive drab sort of shade.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0524DadsUnveiling0070.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0524DadsUnveiling0072.jpg
I kept on with it, and in the end as you will see in the following pics I was very pleased with the overall effect from the filters...the paint developed a richness and depth to it that it certainly didn't have with the initial coat. I thought about brown filters, but decided to leave that as I am going to do an overall burnt sienna oil wash later.
While I was doing all this, the tracks were getting some decidedly amateurish attention. Earlier I'd sprayed them a mix of gunmetal and dark sea grey, followed by a wash of thinned black...but it hadn't really given the effect I was after; it was all a bit weak. So next I applied a wash of thinned hull red, intending it to get into seams and along the track teeth and give a bit of a rust colour...but the wash was far too heavy and the tracks now too reddish. Sigh. So I brush painted gun metal like a very heavy dry-brush over the length of the track and followed THAT with a heavy wash of the same panzer grey/black mix I used for the road wheel tires. And voila....that produced an acceptable pairs of tracks, still with a bit of darkened red in the crevices for a light rust effect....very light mind you, I envisage the Crusader Mk IIIAA as a fairly new tank not long in Normandy.
As mentioned, the road wheel tires got painted, and hoses to the air filters, and the tracks were joined....a tricky little exercise getting them to fit round the idler and driving sprocket and lost a little paint there, but overall it adhered to the vinyl tracks really well. Hot knife saw the tracks joined, and then there was an evening dry-fitting and then gluing on the road wheels, followed by all the side skirts.
This evening it is ready for a satin gloss coat before decals and the main wash and pin washes....and it looks like this:
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0526DadsUnveiling0003.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0526DadsUnveiling0002.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0526DadsUnveiling0001.jpg
The towing cables are just resting on their own weight....they need some touching up and a wash of brown. Slightly puzzled over how I can get them to conform a bit better to the hull.....I may risk one of them with a bowl of hot water to soften it and see whether it survives some bending.....
Tomorrow is decals (I've just finished spraying the gloss coat), then it's a trip to the artist store to get some windsor & newton burnt umber oil paint. I'm really enjoying this, because it is just one thing after another that is new to me. Whatever happens, I'll finish this build having learned a lot if nothing else.
Looking great, McIvan -- awesome work!!
How about that Super 14 Final? ;-)
cillmhor
05-26-2010, 11:45
Looking very good, really impressed how the different layers of paint come together to give a really nice effect. Just one question, why not glue to join the tracks for the final join? I speak as a complete novice.
AirborneBob
05-26-2010, 13:38
Awesome job.....
Im really impressed... Im thinking of doing a vehicle next but dont have an airspray gun so am wondering if it is worth it!!??
Looking great, McIvan -- awesome work!!
How about that Super 14 Final? ;-)
Fortunately, the best two teams are in it.
Unfortunately that's neither your team nor mine!
Better luck to us next year....we're looking forward now to the yearly ritual slaughter (we hope) of the Northern Hemisphere squads....
Looking very good, really impressed how the different layers of paint come together to give a really nice effect. Just one question, why not glue to join the tracks for the final join? I speak as a complete novice.
Vinyl doesn't glue well, although I could have put some superglue or expoxy resin on. Each track has two pins at one end that go through holes at the other end...then you use a hot knife to melt the pins down so it can't come apart. It actually held (when I was doing the dry fit) quite well just by itself, so I figured just melting down the pins would do the job.
Im really impressed... Im thinking of doing a vehicle next but dont have an airspray gun so am wondering if it is worth it!!??
The great thing about vehicles is that the weathering obscures many sins. I never had an airbrush until late last year and did everything with a brush, and vehicles are more forgiving than planes. You can do base coat, washes and highlights with a brush perfectly well, and if you look in the modelling forums there are brush painters turning out astonishing work.
The only thing I would say is that the Tamiya paints aren't great for brush work (because they dry so fast)....they are better for airbrush. If you can find some in your local, Vallejo paints are reputedly the best brush paints around, and they have large ranges of colours mixed for each army....they are specifically an armour based paint range and they do lots of useful colours like various rust shades, oily steel, gunmetal blue. I've inherited a few pots in a bulk buy of models that included the Crusader, have used one colour so far as was very impressed....dense paint, very fine pigment; high quality stuff. Suspect it will need to be thinned with water as a matter of course...and for that purpose the paint pots are designed as droppers so you can meausre out drops and then mix them with whatever.
cillmhor
05-27-2010, 09:16
Vinyl doesn't glue well, although I could have put some superglue or expoxy resin on. Each track has two pins at one end that go through holes at the other end...then you use a hot knife to melt the pins down so it can't come apart. It actually held (when I was doing the dry fit) quite well just by itself, so I figured just melting down the pins would do the job.
Thanks for that, I wondered how the tracks went together. The itch to buy a kit is growing...
Decals not going well tonight.....star on the top of the turret is a three piece job but even so is not snuggling over the various lumps and angles. May have to buy some decal softener in the weekend....but time is running out. How do others get their decals to sit over bumps/lumps/turn corners?
AirborneBob
05-27-2010, 13:22
How do others get their decals to sit over bumps/lumps/turn corners?
I use Micro-Sol..works pretty well
AirborneBob
05-28-2010, 13:44
Progress on my dio..not sure if I will make deadline....
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb20/AirborneBob/IMG_2386.jpg
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb20/AirborneBob/IMG_2384.jpg
Nice work... those are the same walls I used.... Tamiya. Bloody hard to cut up though to make it less conformed. How did you make the gradients?
AirborneBob
05-29-2010, 05:17
1/2" Styrofoam sheet cut to size then Cello-Clay over that....still needs paint/washes etc.....
Since my last post I have laid down a nice coat of Klear varnish, and then the decals. The star on top had to go over multiple curves and didn't do so very well.
Bit more progress today...firstly went out and bought some micro-sol....it did the job reasonably well. There are one or two barely noticeable wrinkles, but the rest is snuggled down.
Also on the purchase menu was some Windsor & Newton Burnt Umber oil paint....I've always used acrylics since getting back into modelling, but the pros seem to use oils for washes, so I'm giving it a go. Tried to find artist white spirits for thinner, but couldn't, so went with mineral turpentine as a thinner. There are warnings about using turpentine, but I think they are in reference to the old wood based turpentine which is too "hot" and will attack the underlying paint and plastic.
Here we have a picture of the hull with its wash of oils.....I have used a clean brush to try and remove some from the middle of panels. I used a fairly heavy wash and you can see from comparison with the turret that the hull now has a browner tone to it, which is an effect I wanted. I haven't done a wash of the turret at this stage because I've just put on a second application of micro-sol on the decals. Next picture is a closer view of the hull. After this were taken I used a cotton bud to clean a little more excess oils off.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0529DadsUnveiling0001.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0529DadsUnveiling0003.jpg
Next we have the model as it is now, with the wash of oil not long ago applied to the turret. The decals were still pretty soft....I should have given them more time....but they're ok.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0529DadsUnveiling0004.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0529DadsUnveiling0005.jpg
It is pitiful how ridiculously pleased I am with this at the moment : ) I hope to goodness I don't stuff it up in the final stages....
McIvan that looks bloody excellent. Im really impressed. Im actually a bit worried about trying vehicles just now!!
Wow -- well done, mate -- that is bloody good!
The Fisher King
05-31-2010, 21:50
I agree looks excellent
Ok, had nothing too much to do for a couple of days while I let the oil paint dry and laid down a couple coats of Klear.
Last night I had my first serious go at chipping. There are heaps of ways to go about this; the one I chose to experiment with involves a lighter version of the base colour for the scratch, and dark brown for the metal underneath. Other methods are using a sponge to lay down lots of irregular patches and dots of a brown or dark grey, or using a base layer with salt crystals or some other material sandwiched between the base and top coat, then abrading off the top coat where it is over the sandwiched material to show a lovely patchwork effect. I have that second technique in mind for a future winter-washed Stug IIIB.
In my minds eye we've got an older hull that has been in salt water while getting off the landing craft, with a newish AA turret. Of the areas on the hull, the equipment lockers and the side skirts seemed to me the most vulnerable, so chipped there the most. Wheels and the rest of the hull didn't get too much, although I gave a fair bit to the drivers "castle" and hatch. The turret got very little.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0601-Chipping.jpg
Viewing the results, I can see this technique will definitely benefit from practice and a lot of searching archives for examples of the real thing. A few more scratches as opposed to chips would have been good too. Having said that, I found it no easy task to try and imagine what chipping and rusting would look like......would be real easy to overdo the effect, which I think I may have a little but no matter. I quite like it.
Next up is a bit of bare metal highlighting....teeth of the drive sprocket, handles, that type of thing, then moving on to dust streaks.
Looking awesome! Congrats!
The Fisher King
06-01-2010, 22:22
Well time is against me, however I have managed to finish the Panther. I want to incorporate some scenary but I don't have the time at the moment. I've learned a lot though this project, I feel I've moved on significantly from my first Halftrack project. I still have a long way to go and tecniques to refine but I've really enjoyed the build.
http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad264/fisherrm/IMG_3884.jpg
http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad264/fisherrm/IMG_3887.jpg
http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad264/fisherrm/IMG_3885.jpg
AirborneBob
06-02-2010, 00:03
Good looking cat there...
Well done on the Panther. In your build I really enjoyed the zimmeritt, which you did bloody well on, and I must say the mud you've added to the tracks looks good, especially in that front on shot. Like the painting and highlighting on the top MG, and also the flash supressor of the main gun. You are definitely justified in saying you've moved upwards significantly. Hope you're pleased with it!
PoorOldSpike
06-02-2010, 01:14
SITREP: 1944 Build Competition
Razorboy- Stug and Grenadiers 'clearing the trench'
ACSpectre- Opel Blitz truck 'Maquis ambush'
McIvan- Crusader III AA tank
The Fisher King- Panther: FINISHED
Airborne Bob- Infantry defensive position
Willard- Wirbelwind
Zaraza- C-47
PS- When does this Competition end? It's been running now for 6 months and only Fisher King has finished!
Maybe the competitors can post a progress report saying how far along they are with their masterpieces?
The last I heard, Bootie and me are going to be the judges, but I forget who's running and organising the show.
I suggest we think about ending it at the end of June (4 weeks from now) and the winner will get the usual inscribed FGM Trophy Cup or Tankard, how does that sound?
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g64/PoorOldSpike/sub4/CupModel.png
Mick,
The rules of the competition are that D-Day is, appropriately, the 6th of June.....which is the date I'm working towards. I'll be finished...hell, I could submit the Crusader now if need be.
Judges are you, Bootie and Razorboy and a 25% weighting on member poll.
Group Model Build #1 - 1944
Starting - 00:00hrs. February 7, 2010 < > Ending 18:00hrs. June 6, 2010
1) All FGM members are allowed and encouraged to participate - except those members designated as judges.
2) All entries must represent military or civilian figures,vehicles, aircraft, naval vessels, equipment or structures in use by any nation during the year 1944.
3) All builds must be documented by no less than 3 pictures taken during construction, with the first photo showing the kit parts still on the sprue.
**** We will waive rule #3 for this first build and allow any builds started this year****
4) All builds must be completed by the specified finish-date in order to be judged.
5) All modellers are allowed up to 3 entries and as specified in rule#3, there must be at least 1 pre-construction picture, 2 construction pics and at least 3 when completed for judging.
6) All scales and kit types are permitted, ie. resin, styrene, alloy,wood, etc..
7) Dioramas are permitted in this build.
8) Judging will be as follows: Judge Votes - each with one vote counting: (25% x3 Judges) = 75%
Member Votes - done through a voting poll = 25%
----------
100%
9) All Judge's decisions are FINAL
10) Have FUN!!!!
Please list your choice for the build on this thread and should anyone have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask.
Now let's have some FUN!
Rules repeated for reference....
PoorOldSpike
06-02-2010, 04:33
Okay but Razorboy hasn't visited FGM for 4 weeks and the above rules look too complicated anyway.
I vote-
1- Bootie assumes command of the show
2- All competitors can be mailed or PM'd to remind them of the 6 June deadline (perhaps they've forgotten)
3- If they had forgotten, Bootie can perhaps extend the deadline another couple of weeks or so at his discretion to give them time to finish.
4- We can simply put up a poll to let members decide the winner by voting for whichever creation they like best, based on photos posted by the competitors. That way the whole club will enjoy being involved, rather than just having a few judges.
I suggest a 'Judging Thread' be opened after the finish in which each competitor will post 4 pictures of their stunning creations (from different flattering angles).
A poll and an announcement can then be put up in Gen Chat asking members to visit the Scale Models Judging thread to scrutinise the creations and vote accordingly.
The Fisher King
06-02-2010, 07:44
Thanks for the kind comments. I'm really glad I went for the zimmerit which added an additional element to the build. I think customising kits is something I'll do more of in the future.
Well, one hopes Razorboy will be along for the judging since we haven't hit the deadline, although 4 weeks sounds a little ominous...
No objection from me to points 1, 2 and 3.....and with no.4 I merely point out that all club members were already going to be asked to vote on their favourite.
In the interim, it is now time to demolish my beautiful deep olive green finish and smear it beneath the layers of chalky earth and dust in the heat of Normandy 44. First step is rain marks.......followed by dust on the top of the turret - which is all I had time for. The hull will follow tomorrow. I used a Buff colour....pretty pleased with this side, the other side is perhaps a little too heavy on the streaking but its not too bad. Hopefully it looks like a nice dusty grimy Crusader.....I could easily go badly wrong here.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0602-TurretDust.jpg
AirborneBob
06-02-2010, 12:59
I may need the extension..new baby and buying a house have set me behind
PoorOldSpike
06-03-2010, 03:30
..I merely point out that all club members were already going to be asked to vote on their favourite.
Yes but more weight was going to be given to how several "judges" voted.
I suggest we don't have any judges and simply let the votes of every FGM member decide the winner.
The poll will then be dead simple and look like this-
Cast your vote-
Razorboy- Stug and Grenadiers 'clearing the trench'
ACSpectre- Opel Blitz truck 'Maquis ambush'
McIvan- Crusader III AA tank
The Fisher King- Panther
Airborne Bob- Infantry defensive position
Willard- Wirbelwind
Zaraza- C-47
I suggest the poll be left open for 3 days and the votes kept totally hidden until the end of the 3 days.
(PS- Bootie told me yesterday that he'll be sorting all this out in the next day or two)
I kinda liked the idea of Razorboy as a judge because he's definitely an expert modeller whose skills leave ours in the shade....which means he knows exactly how much effort has gone in, and what to look for, whereas half our members with all due respect to them wouldn't have much idea. But if he's not around, he's not around :(
PoorOldSpike
06-03-2010, 05:20
Hey wait a min, Razorboy is a competitor, so according to Rule #1, he can't be a judge as well! Look-
1) All FGM members are allowed and encouraged to participate - except those members designated as judges.
cillmhor
06-03-2010, 08:15
Has anyone tried to contact Razorboy?
No. I will be having a look at this over the next day or two. Im on my last shift at work then have a few days of. Ideally I would like to stick to the original rules but will have a good read and decide on the practicalities of them on an individual basis. I dont think Razorboy actually entered his model.
Yeah Razorboy wasn't entering as he was a judge....I mean he was still doing his model but, like POS with his tourneys, wasn't in the hunt to win.
Righto.....rain/dust streaks and accumulated dust have found their way onto the decks and sides of my doughty Crusader, with results that for the first time in this build I'm not actually sure I like.
My thoughts are that it is a bit too much - not that it's out of reality in most respects, but somewhat more than I intended and obscuring too much of the hard-won detail I've put into this model over the last couple of months.
Things I do like are the way the dust "drifts" against the ridges and in the corners, and I tried to get the dry earth around the edges of the wheels and out of the middles where centrifugal force would have shifted it. I also like the rust effect on the spare tracks on the right front using brown and terracotta pigments.
I'm going to give it a day or two and mull it over before deciding whether to try and scale back the effects a little....if it is still possible. The rain streaked dust on the sides will be the hardest...its all Tamiya acrylic Buff that dried real quick - so quick it was real difficult to work with even diluted with plenty of water - and will be hard to shift. The dust on the top and on the wheels is a mixture of artist pastel chalks ground into powder with sandpaper and then fixed into position with mineral turpentine...used a mix of buff with a little ochre and an even smaller amount of dark brown. In contrast to the acrylic, the pastel pigments can easily be shifted with a brush, and regardless of what I intend to do with the rest of the model, I'm going to take a bit off the wheels and perhaps the tracks.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0601modelslatest0005.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0601modelslatest0004.jpg
McIvan -- looks great, technically awesome. -- maybe a bit of overkill on the dust -- look more like southern Italy or Sicily ;-)
PoorOldSpike
06-03-2010, 15:51
Has anyone tried to contact Razorboy?
Not me. He's a big boy and knows the rules about a deadline.
My attitude is the same as with my tourneys, namely if people go AWOL it shows their heart is not in it. If they come back of their own volition, fine, otherwise I certainly don't waste my time chasing after them..;)
PoorOldSpike
06-03-2010, 17:28
..I kinda liked the idea of Razorboy as a judge because he's definitely an expert modeller whose skills leave ours in the shade..
Bollox, he's good, but then so are we!
Hell, even I won a competition with my 1/35th Tamiya motorised M-60 tank organised by a model shop some years ago, it played a blinder trundling along the floor..:)
PS- just to comment more on the judging:- one reason I'm against having judges is that it'll devalue the winner's trophy, because it means it'll have been awarded to him by just a few people.
But if the whole membership of FGM were the judges via a poll, his victory would have much more clout and be much more satisfying to him.
It's like when me and a couple of members were discussing awarding Bootie a tankard for his services to wargaming, we decided it'd be far better if it didn't come from just the 3 of us, but from the entire club, so I PM'd every member asking if they supported the tankard idea and the "yesses" were overwhelming.
Bootie can therefore proudly polish his tankard knowing that it was awarded not just by a few individuals but by the entire membership of FGM..:)
PoorOldSpike
06-03-2010, 20:45
On second thoughts, maybe having the entire membership cast their votes in the model competition is not such a good idea after all..
I mean, some people might vote for somebody out of loyalty because he's their mate, not because they think his entry is the best, it's human nature I suppose.
I think we'd better leave it to our Captain Bootie to decide whether to go with Membership votes or with Judges.
If he decides on Judges, I nominate they can be-
Bootie (for his eye for line and scale)
Me (for my modelling experience)
Earl of Grey (for his AFV colour scheme knowledge)
Plus maybe a couple more?
I'm easy really. For what it's worth I would love to see a poll on the models go to the membership...although at this point we're not exactly swamped with 'em. I liked the judges plus poll method best, but I'm not overly fussed. 50/50? Not a bother either way to me.
McIvan -- looks great, technically awesome. -- maybe a bit of overkill on the dust -- look more like southern Italy or Sicily ;-)
Yeah the dust is definitely overkill, but thankfuly it's not a major to scale it back. The dust streaking on the sides will be the challenge...
PoorOldSpike
06-03-2010, 23:11
..I liked the judges plus poll method best, but I'm not overly fussed..
Even if the members votes aren't given as much weight as the judges votes, the fact remains that the "votes for mates" loophole will still carry some er...weight and influence the results unless its totally plugged by only letting the judges vote.
The panel of expert judges can fully discuss the merits of all the entries via e-mail among themselves before reaching their carefully-considered decision.
PS- speaking of loopholes, when Sir Alan Sugar gives tasks to his wannabee apprentices to sell more stuff than the other team, it beats me why team members don't secretly phone around all their relatives and friends and say- "Our stall will be on the Portobello Road all day tomorrow, please come down and buy something and help us win!"
Or maybe they already secretly do that for all we know..:)
Well seeing as Razorboy helped set this up we will give him to June 6th to see if he returns. If not I intend to use the same scoring criteria as listed in the rules. We cant change the rules at the 11th hour as it isnt what people signed up for.
If RB does not return we will draft in someone else to act as judge in his place.
AirborneBob
06-05-2010, 05:18
I am pretty sure I will not have it completed by the 6th, but will post photos of what I have got so far...
Today's the deadline so here is my entry as it presently stands.
"Skyraker" is a Crusader Mk III AA tank armed with two 20mm Oerlikon cannon. Seven of these tanks were assigned to each British Armoured Division fighting in Normandy.
First the real tank...
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/CrusaderIIIAAMkIII.jpg
Secondly my effort, begrimed in the dust of the Normandy summer.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0605modelslatest0024.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0605modelslatest0022.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/McIvanNZ/Models/2010_0605modelslatest0025.jpg
This is model I will keep working on.....and I think to be seen at best effect it will need its own base and a crew figure, but that will be a project for a later time. I would have liked to photograph it in natural light outside on the grass, but unfortunately mother nature is being extremely unco-operative today!
I have to give my apologies for failing to finish my entry. Real Life proved much busier than I expected. However, I haven't given up, and will definitley post pictures of my Wirblewind once done. BTW, great work on the AA Crusader McIvan!
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